Nikos Koulis Debuts 'Lingerie'

Glowing silver Tahitian pearls bring out a softer side in the latest collection from Nikos Koulis.

Taking inspiration from delicate lace, ‘Lingerie’ marks the designer's first foray into pearls. Sharp openwork features triangles and trillion-cut diamonds - a favorite of the designer - and loops of pearls. Emeralds and sapphires in soft colors are used sparingly while black enamel, a signature of the designer, makes a few discrete appearances as well. The collection is a beautiful transition from the high contrast enamel and vivid gems from his very popular ‘Oui’ and ‘Spectrum’ collections, though this is no less dynamic. Soft with just right amount of edge - much like a fabulous piece of lingerie.

This year, Koulis eschewed Baselworld in favor of a New York debut at Bergdorf Goodman, complete with a private viewing salon and personal appearance. I was fortunately in New York while the full collection was there and while I would happily take home any piece, the hoop earrings get my top marks for a unique statement.

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